Sunday, November 4, 2018

Fall/Winter Sewing Queue

Hello! Hope you're well on this beautiful November Day. It's Sunday morning, and I'm drinking tea and blogging from bed. Basically, my perfect Sunday morning! I have so many projects, and partially completed projects that I don't want to become UFOs, swirling around in my head, so I thought it would be helpful to take a few minutes to order all those plans. 

Obviously, I'm a bit tardy laying out my fall sewing plans, but the garments I plan to make--with the exception of the coat--are mostly simple and quick projects that will carry me though to March 2019 and beyond. I really like where my wardrobe is at right now and even stopped to admire my color palette when I was doing laundry yesterday. It's mostly black and white with some dark blue, terracotta, and some neutrals. It feels like me, which is something I've been striving for ever since I started sewing. I also don't like to put a big emphasis on output. If anything, I try to find ways to slow down my sewing with underwear making and other scrapbusters. But the list below includes things I think I will want to wear in the next few months, and it's helpful to plan things out a bit.

1.) Deer and Doe Opium Coat
For the past few years, I've loved wearing my CCP Clare Coat, but since it was my first coat and I'd used cheap wool, it's starting to look a bit tatty.  I've had good luck with Deer and Doe in the past, so the plan is to make a muslin this weekend with my usual DnD mods to check fit before cutting into this gorgeous wool.

  • Fabric: Herringbone Tweed from LaMercerie, 100% wool, deadstock. Lining: Bemberg Rayon in mist blue from Stonemountain, medium weight interfacing also purchased at Stonemountain.
  • Progress: PDF taped. Fabric Purchased. Gripe so far: The lining is nested in the coat, which means I have to trace it before cutting out the main pieces, which I find super annoying. Admittedly, if the lining were separate that would mean more pieces to tape and more paper waste; however, there are two kinds of people in the world: Tapers and Tracers. And I'm a taper. It kind of threw a wrench into my momentum as I now have to dig out my tracing paper.

2.) Seamwork Tacara Dress
When I first saw this on the reed-thin model, I didn't think it was for me, but I reconsidered when I saw how good it looked on some curvy ladies on Instagram. I can see something like this being nice for upcoming holiday events and comfy over leggings and tights.

  • Fabric: Diamond Viscose Jersey from La Mercerie, which is on sale and still available!
  • Progress: Pattern taped and cut out. I still have to make some short-person mods. Fabric pre-washed. 

3.) Cashmerette Montrose Top, View A
I purchased this the day it released because, duh, it's a basic with FBA included. I think it will be so wonderfully hackable once I get the fit perfected. Then I got distracted by the Seamwork Bo. I love my ikat Bo tops. They are in weekly rotation because I feel great wearing them, but as the weather cools I'm going to need a shell that works better underneath cardigans. I think the Montrose will fit the bill perfectly.

  • Fabric: Atelier Brunette Blue Moonstone
  • Progress: Pattern ready, fabric prewashed. I will probably cut this out on a weeknight when I'm feeling the need for a quick make. It looks pretty easy and straightforward.

4.) Deer and Doe Plantain Tee
It doesn't get more basic (and boring) than a gray tee shirt. Right now, it's hard to muster the enthusiasm, but this is actually a UFO I started before I went on vacation. I'm basically just waiting until I have grey thread on my serger.

  • Fabric: Gray Bamboo Jersey Knit from Blackbird Fabrics - I don't see the light gray on their website, but there is some in charcoal
  • Progress: Fabric already cut out and ready to sew up. I preferred the swing shape of the old Plantain (before the reboot), so I slashed and spread just a bit. Love the scoop neckline. 

5.) Wendy Ward Durwent Wide Leg Trousers (from her Sewing with Knits book)
This one is a bit of a wild card. I can see these pants being fantastically unflattering on my round-bellied bod, but I also picture ultra-comfy lounge pants that I can still wear outside without looking like a total slob. I didn't buy the book because I've purchased so many beginner sewing books over the years. They usually hit a lot of the same points--use a ball point needle; you don't need a serger, etc. Instead, I checked out the book from the library, after waiting on the hold list for months. When I finally got my hands on the book, I was pleasantly surprised that all the patterns were intact and I was able to trace off the pants and copy the instructions. (Cutting out patterns from library books is like school on Sundays--no class.)

  • Fabric: Moondust Double Knit with Pink Speckle from Blackbird
  • Progress: Pattern traced and cut out. Fabric prewashed. Need to add length to the legs.

My last couple of versions of the Tabor V-neck were a bit of a cop out--mainly because I was trying to save a botched project. I still want to learn how to make that lovely lapped view with the wide neckband properly. 
  • Fabric: Merino Knit Jersey in Marsala from the Fabric Store 
  • Progress: Pattern cut and fabric prewashed. This fabric was not cheap, so I'll have to go slowly and carefully. 
So there you are. I think after laying it all out, I'm ready to tackle my list and get to sewing. Anything on your sewing table these days?

Thanks for reading and have a fantastic week! Also, don't forget to vote Tuesday! 

Sunday, October 7, 2018

Upcycling and Stashbusting

Hi there! Hope you're having a great weekend. It's a long weekend for me with Columbus Day on Monday, so I thought I'd take advantage of the extra time to write a post about my two most recent projects: a pouch for my laptop and the Seamwork Madrid tote bag.

It started, really, with a need for a laptop case—a simple sleeve with a bit of cushion so it doesn't get too banged up in my purse—and a desire to use the pretty ikat scraps from my recently sewn up Seamwork Bo tops.  I had this coat that hasn't fit me in years, but I couldn't bear to give it to Goodwill because it was a memento from a trip to  Hong Kong many years ago. For once I remembered to take a picture of the original garment. Yay!

In case you can't tell by the pictures, the coat is tweed with a quilted lining. I decided to take advantage of the cushion and cut the pieces as one layer. Yes, I mostly cut the pieces since there was plenty of fabric and it would have been way too much unpicking. The first pic is overexposed and the laptop pics are a bit too dark. In real life, it's the color of oatmeal, with great texture and subtle flecks of pink. I'm so glad I held on to it because it turned out to be great for upcycling.

I used a pattern for a lined zipper pouch at Klumhouse, and just adjusted the measurements for my laptop. If you sign up for their newsletter, you get the pattern (just measurements) and really excellent instructions for free. They also have epic bag patterns and kits—way more ambitious than I was in the mood for, though.

Ta dah! I save my old purses for the bits and pieces, which is where the leather zipper tassel came from. The inside is lined with a large scrap of black ikat.

As I was taking it apart, I realized that there was a lot of fabric. (I only used the sleeves for the pouch.) So I decided to make a bag for myself since I haaattte the bag I'm currently carrying around. It's too big, so I end up carrying around way too much shit,  and I don't like the short drop length. I looked at Klumhouse and Noodlehead but ended up with something simple—the Seamwork Madrid tote.

The Madrid is a super simple mid-sized tote with a lining. It doesn't include handles, but I planned to use some old purse straps anyway. However, I knew I would need some outer pockets to access my phone, reading glasses, and transit card. Fortunately, with such a simple pattern, it was easy to customize. the green fabric is from a UFO—a Deer and Doe Pavot coat that I kept tweaking before I finally realized that I hate Peter Pan collars and should've just started with a different pattern. Speaking of Deer and Doe patterns, have you seen the Opium coat? Love! Already purchased and printed. Just keeping an eye out for some nice wool. 

My biggest worry with the Madrid is that it would look kind of cheap. I'm not crazy about the tab with the magnetic snap, but I didn't have the right size zipper and was feeling impatient. I also wish I had interfaced the green fabric. I took advantage of the already interfaced placket of my UFO for the D-ring loops and the tab, but I think it would wear better if the whole thing were interfaced. The fabric is an organic cotton twill in a khaki green. Glad it's not gone to waste.

I also added a small pocket for my keys to the backside. Sewed it on crookedly, much to my chagrin. Fortunately, that side won't be outward facing.

I think my new bag will work as a transition bag until I find a new leather bag. Or maybe I'll become a cloth bag convert. Or maybe I'll try a more complicated pattern next time. At any rate, these refashion projects are always fun, and I love the chance to do some scrapbusting.

Time to sign off. Thanks for reading and have a lovely week!

Sunday, September 23, 2018

Fabric Shopping in Paris and the Seamwork Bo

Hello! Hope you're having a fab weekend. Now that vacation's over it's back to life, back to reality, back to sewing. I still keep thinking about our wonderful trip and am trying to maintain some of that relaxed European vibe, though. Easier said than done, but hey we've all gotta figure out ways to unwind. 

I knew I wanted to do a little fabric shopping in Paris and referred to Christine Haynes's article in Seamwork. It was good to get a bit of info about the coupons because, much to my embarrassment and shame, I don't speak any French and am too shy to even try. All I could say was "Bonjour" and "Merci," so I said those words a lot. 

First stop was Anna Ka Bazaar, which is a very pretty shop and not the one pictured below. (I took that picture surreptitiously in Montmartre a few days later because the mini-mannequins were sort of interesting to me.) I was only planning to visit Anna Ka Bazaar and not do any other fabric shopping, so I splashed out and bought the 2 meters each of the black and white ikats and 1.5 meters each of the Atelier Brunette fabrics. I guess I spent a lot of money because they gave me the Atelier Brunette tote, which totally made my day. It has the perfect drop length. 

Here's a close-up of the fabric I bought. 

A few days later we were in Montmartre to see Sacre Coeur. I knew that there was a garment district with fabrics shops in the area, but I didn't know they would be right down the hill from the basilica. It was such an awesome surprise to happen upon all the shops I'd read about! I was too shy and not wanting to look like a gaping tourist, so, regretfully, I didn't take any pictures of the shops. Beej took this picture, which includes Dreyfuss on the left. There were tons of shops, some specifically for men's clothing, lots of wools, and some mystery fabrics. I could have spent hours there but since I'd purchased four pieces at Anna Ka Bazaar, I didn't want to buy too much. I ended up buying three meters of a brown linen that's going to become a shirt for Beej at some point. 

Not one to let fabric languish in my stash, I've already sewn up two Seamwork Bo tops with the ikats. Seamwork rolled out the Bo while we were on vacation, and it's just the kind of top I wanted to make all summer to wear with cropped pants. So I was all over it when I got back home to my sewing machine. The pattern could not be more simple--just a couple of rectangles with cuffs--but I think there's something kind of modern about it and I like the proportions. Is it flattering? (Such a loaded term, isn't it?) Probably not. There's probably some "What Not to Wear Rule" about how short, busty ladies shouldn't have extra fabric bunched around their widest parts, but I've never been a big rule follower. I like to go by how a garment makes me feel when I wear it, and this makes me feel great. 

Just a few notes in case I make this again:
  • Size 18 (I chose the curvy file, which starts at 18.) If you're concerned about it being too oversized, you could easily size down since there are 7+ inches of ease. The fit around the neck and shoulders feels pretty good, though, which isn't always the case for my body and seamwork patterns. 
  • I chose to use bias tape to hem the white version because I didn't want to lose any length.

  • For the black version, I added 1.5" to the bottom. Then, I hemmed 1/4" fold, followed by 1"
  • I think these will be great for those warm, Indian summer days we get around this time of year. They're too oversized to look good underneath cardigans, I think, so I will probably have to pack them away during the rainy season.

Back to reality, back to toilet selfies...

So that turned into an epic post. Thanks for reading if you made it this far and have an awesome week. Chow!

Friday, August 31, 2018

Emersons Abroad

Hello from Reims, France! Beej and I arrived in London last Sunday and just arrived in Reims yesterday. We haven't had the best weather, but I'm in France eating cheese and drinking champagne and not working so no complaints here! Today we took a zillion photos of the cathedral of Notre-Dame in Reims and are now comfortably settled in our room with all kinds of yummy things to eat and drink.

Also, I'm able to blog abroad because Beej gave me a laptop for our tenth wedding anniversary last week! Year ten is aluminum or tin, and I really can't think of anything else aluminum that I'd like. Awesome gift!

I thought a lot about my travel wardrobe--and like many sewists spent several evenings before vacation at my sewing machine, trying to whip up a handmade holiday wardrobe. I succeeded in making three tee-shirts and the True Bias Emerson Pants I'm blogging today, as well as the linen Nenuphar kimono jacket I recently posted.  Not too shabby, come to think of it.

Advance Warning: My pictures don't really show the pants very well. They're black and I forgot to do the half tuck because I would never do a half tuck in real life. Also, I climbed up on a gate and am suspending forward, so the pants look a little longer than they actually are. Having said that, I did cut them to be a longer cropped trouser, closer to the length of the cropped Landers than the Emersons. In real life, they hit about 3 inches above my ankle. I would probably wear with clogs or cork wedges at home, know, cobblestones.

That weird lump on my right leg is just my reading glasses and phone in my pocket. They're roomy and comfy and perfect for traveling. Incidentally, this is an entirely handmade outfit: Emersons, Deer and Doe Plantain tee, and Blackwood cardigan.

In total, I've made five pairs of Emersons now. It's a super easy pattern as there's no fly front. Perfect for over-ambitious sewists to make at the last minute since they sew up very quickly and require minimal fitting.  I like the elastic back and the flat front waistband. I guess they're technically considered "pull-on pants," although I hate that term because it reminds me of diapers. I sewed up the largest size and didn't shorten because I didn't want them to be cropped just below the knees. In the past, I've sewed them up as work pants in tencel, but the fabric I used this time really suits the pattern, I think, and provides a bit more structure. I also used a heavier interfacing for the front waistband panel, which I recommend.  Now I want to say a bit more about the fabric because I think it's kind of special.

I fabric is impossible to photograph. But with the exposure bumped up, hopefully you can see the texture in the pic above. This is a linen/cotton blend from Britex. (Sorry, couldn't find it on the website.) I think it was around 39.99 per yard, paid for with the last of my seemingly endless Britex gift certificates, which are now finally used up. As you can see, it's crinkled like a gauze but a bit thicker and heavier. The really interesting thing about this fabric is that it's not actually crinkled but, in fact, shirred. The back of the fabric has parallel lines of black thread that slightly gather the fabric. I've never seen anything like it. If I manage to get a decent shot of the back of this fabric, I'll be sure to add to this blog post.

So I think that's everything I can think to say about my travel trousers. I'm rotating these with two pairs of jeans, but we'll still need to do laundry when we get to Paris on Sunday. Mostly because I need more clean tops.

I hope to blog more about vacation clothes making when I return home. Until then, have a wonderful week wherever you are. Au revoir!

Wednesday, August 8, 2018

Nenuphar: The Jacket I Never Knew I Needed

Hello! Or should I say Bonjour? So this is just a mid-week quickie blog post. I don't have a lot of pics (as usual), but I feel compelled to share my experience with the Nenuphar jacket from Deer and Doe. I don't make a lot of different things; it's mostly tops and undies on this blog. So whenever I go outside of my comfort zone a little, it's pretty damn exciting. 

I bought the Nenuphar pattern almost immediately after the launch because it's adorable and they recently expanded their size range, but then I sat on it for a bit. I was worried it wouldn't work on my curvy plus bod, nervous about set-in sleeves after my Kelly Anorak, and was just kind of unsure about the look--like maybe it would be a little too art teacher chic on a person my age. Ultimately, though, I decided that I like art teacher chic and to just go for it. And I'm so glad I did. It totally fills the office-wear cardigan hole during summer. Dressing for the office can feel like a uniform: black/dark/non-denim pants, nice top (i.e., not a tee shirt), cardigan. A little linen kimono jacket does the same job as a cardigan but feels so fresh for summer. It's a nice surprise since I didn't have super high expectations. 

Without further ado, here's my toilet selfie and a few construction notes. 

  • Sorry, this was a particularly rushed toilet selfie. I think I heard someone coming.
  • Made a size 50, which is the second largest size. Even though my 48" bust measurement put me in the largest size, I had a feeling I should size down. It's open (no closures) and an oversized design to begin with. 
  • While it's somewhat oversized, I really like that it's not overwhelming or overly large. I think the proportions are very well thought out. Also, the set-in sleeve helps with this. 
  • Speaking of set-in sleeves, these were sooooo easy. There's barely a sleeve head. I ended up sewing them in flat rather than setting them and it was completely painless and drama free. 
  • Short person mods: I shortened the sleeves 1.5 at the "shorten here" line / shortened 7/8 of an inch at the torso "shorten here" line.
  • This comes together VERY quickly. An easy weekend make. The pattern pieces fit very well together. I always get a little nervous when the placket is supposed to meet the bottom because I'm so often off by an inch or so, but it all fit so well together. 
  • My one piece of advice in varying from the instructions is when you're instructed to sew the pockets on before hemming/adding the placket. It wasn't that it was terribly off, but I would just baste them on and see where you like the pockets when the jacket is finished. The jacket is unlined, so there's no special reason to sew them on at the beginning of construction. 
  • Fabric is a lovely terra cotta linen/silk blend from Fabric Outlet. I think I paid around $15 per yard if I paid full price. Love, love, love this color. 
So that's my Nenuphar jacket. I made it for my summer vacay to wear with jeans, but I think it might also be an office staple, at least for Indian summer and next spring. I'm already thinking about making one in sensible black crepe, though I'm loving all the statement Nenuphars I'm seeing in bold patterns.

In other news, I made a True Bias Lodo but shortened it as a top. 

I'm not going to say very much because it's a shift dress that I shortened to a top. Pretty simple. I marked the pattern cut line with a green highlighter so I can go back and make another top the same length. That's my hot tip for you. I used a nice quality ponte stripe from Mood. As I mentioned in my previous blog post, I'm visiting France in a few weeks. The problem is I sew and wear striped jersey tops all the time, but I feel like I can't wear them in Paris for fear of looking like a walking cliche. People will be like, "hey, where's your baguette?"

Anyhoo, I'll leave you with some pictures of nice-looking Lodo guts. I do love the woven/knit combo and the nice finish you get.  Have a fantastic week and thank you for reading!

Saturday, July 28, 2018

Summer Clothes: Another Kalle

Hello! Hope you're having an excellent weekend. I'm just sitting here procrastinating. I want to make a Deer and Doe Nenuphar Jacket, but the thought of taping all those pdf pattern, maybe a glass of wine and a blog post first. Speaking of Deer and Doe, the other day I happened upon the blog of the D & D curvy model, Elodie, and have been really enjoying reading about her makes. Since I don't speak French, I'm able to read it via Google Translate, which isn't quite the same but you get the gist. I love how in the translated version sewing patterns are called "bosses." I get why—patron=boss—but it still makes me smile. I'm actually going to France in a month, so I guess that's why I've been a bit of a francophile these days.

Anyhoo, back to the subject at hand which is another Closet Case Patterns Kalle tunic but this time in a refreshing white linen.

It's linen, baby. Gotta embrace those wrinkles. 

I really noticed my lack of warm-weather clothes while staying at my parents' in hot, humid TN. Then I had to do some traveling for work—first to the Pacific Northwest (Portland and Seattle) and then to Phoenix, AZ. All those knit tops I like to make are way too heavy for hot weather. It was 115-freakin'-degrees in Phoenix! That's where linen comes in. Isn't it the best to sew? I love the steamy smell of the flax when you press it, and the way it stitches up so easily without any puckering. It's also timeless and elegant, IMHO. 

And I LOVE the buttons from ArrowMountain. In fact, the shirt was progressing pretty slowly until these buttons arrived in the mail. I also bought these gorgeous black hexagon buttons and phases of the moon. You can't see it in the pic below, but the hex buttons have tiny hex-shaped holes. Love that kind of attention to detail!

Just to change things up from my usual work bathroom selfie, here's a hotel bathroom selfie for ya. 

I've blogged about previous Kalles here and here. Additional notes below. 
  • Like my first version: Size 20, no FBA. Tunic, popover version with tabbed collar. 
  • Also like previous: Shortened 2" at the "shorten here" line. 
  • New mod: In addition to the previous 2" mod, I also shortened the back tail by 2" so it wouldn't hang quite so low. It still covers my butt, but it won't peak out from long cardigans. 
  • I've been obsessed with owning the perfect white shirt for a while now. The first one I made, a Mila Itch to Stich popover, was made from fabric with poor drape so I hardly ever wore it. The second had excellent drape but was too sheer to wear without something under or over it. I think this white linen from Blackbird fabrics hits the sweet spot of being light but not too sheer. Now it's just a matter of keeping it stain-free. Fortunately, I've recently discovered how well my husband's Doc Bronner's liquid castile soap works on stains, so fingers crossed. 
  • I ignored the cuff instructions, opting for a simpler technique of sewing as I would a jersey cuff and serging the raw seam.
  • That curved hem...damn. Turning the bias binding under 1/4" for the last pass on the machine is never easy. I used wonder clips for the curve and a shitload of pins for the rest. It really is worth taking the extra time, though, since it's the side curve that makes this pattern so special. 
  • Completely blew off the top button hole because it was way too thick for my machine.

Well, I think I've said everything I can about a pattern I've made three times. I'll just leave you with pics of delicious food from Phoenix's Sicilian Butcher. Have a fab week!

Saturday, July 7, 2018

Sabor, Tutton....Tabor-ish

Hello, hope you're well! I'm having one of those days where I'm so tired I don't know where to start or what to do. This week's been hectic despite (or maybe due to) having a holiday smack in the middle of the week. Thursday and Friday were 12-hour days for me, and I will need to go into the office tomorrow—on a Sunday. No bueno. On the bright side, this is not a permanent situation. I've got two events in the Pacific Northwest this week to finish preparing for. Things will normalize a bit by next week when those events are behind me.

I was instantly smitten when I saw the Tabor v-neck by the intriguing Sew House Seven. It's SO my wheelhouse: loose and boxy, knit, v-neck, kimono sleeve or drop sleeve, a million variations. Now before I go any further, I need to make the disclaimer that this isn't really a helpful review of the pattern because I had to vary the construction method, but I still wanted to write about it because I think it was a good save.

You can probably spot the main reason why this is not really a good review of the Tabor in the above pic: Check out that center seam. I was following along with the instructions for the cropped sweater version with the wide lapped neckband, which was the standout variation to me. As you can see, that's not what I ended up with. Turns out, constructing the neck was trickier than I anticipated. After a few unsuccessful attempts and some overly aggressive seam ripping, I discovered that I'd torn a pea-sized hole in the front. There was no way to cover it up. I wanted to save this knit because...time, fabric, labor—but also because I think this knit, while inexpensive and therefore not the best quality, is interesting. It's meant to look like denim—even on the reverse side—but it's a stretchy knit. I guess it's intended for jeggings, but I thought it would make a cute top.

I didn't have enough fabric to recut another front piece on the fold, but then I remembered the construction of one of my favorite woven patterns—the True Bias Sutton top.

I didn't use any of the Sutton pattern pieces, but I borrowed from its construction. Basically, I cut a Tabor tee shirt front piece (NOT the cropped sweater version) on the cross grain as two pieces. Sewed the two front seams at the shoulder seam to the back of the original sweater piece (it was a little mismatched at the neck, but I was able to trim a little to get them to fit), and attached a neckband BEFORE joining the two center fronts. For the neckband, I used the tee version but made it extra long for wiggle room. I used my cover stitch to tack down the neck before sewing the center and I pulled gently for just a little tension so that the neckline would lay flat. I also added sleeve cuffs, using my Hey June Santa Fe pattern, and a split hem for kicks.

Here's a pic of how it looks on. I swear, at this point I think I should rename this blog, "Toilet Selfie."

So it's not how I intended it to go, but I like the top I ended up with. I do plan to learn the proper construction method. In fact, I've got the perfect piece of burgundy merino wool to make the lapped v-neck sweater, which would be perfect for fall. But I had so much fun with this easy, stress-free method, that I couldn't resist making a couple more Tabor-ish Suttons or Sutton-ish Tabors (Sabors?) in different types of knits. Once you remove the tricky neckline of the Tabor, construction is laughably easy. And I really don't mind the center seam.

A shibori knit for an easy summer tee...

And this terracotta tee (I'm OBSESSED with this color) for wearing with shorts and jeans. 

Here are the sizing deets and additional musings:
  • Size: 20. A little too large. Also, fabric type/stretch affects the sizing as well. I ended up making all kinds of crazy mods:
    • For my faux denim knit: Sewed the crop sweater back, with cropped tea front sewn as two pieces. In my haste, I did not remember to add a seam allowance but with so much ease it wasn't a problem. 
    • Lengthened cropped sweater by 1.5" in the front and 3" in the back. 
    • Eyeballed the side split and used Hey June piece for the cuff.
    • All three tops were primarily constructed on the serger with some basting on my regular sewing machine. 
  • For the Shibori print: 
    • Used both front and back tee pieces at the cropped length. 
    • Raised v-neckline by 3/4" and sewed the shoulder with a 5/8" seam allowance. 
    • The beauty of this construction is that you don't have to worry about the neckband being off because you end up trimming the excess anyway. 
    • Also forgot seam allowance. 
    • The front tips up a teensy bit due to my bust. 
    • Again, I added cuffs since it's a summer top that won't likely be worn with a cardigan, but the knit is pretty flimsy so the cuffs ended up being a little floppy. I may cut them off altogether and fold under for a simple hem.
    • Cover stitched the hem only because the coverstitching on the neckline wasn't looking too good. I ended up unpicking. There was quite a bit of tunneling, so I adjusted all my machine tension dials to 2 (they're usually at 4).
  • For the terracotta knit
    • First, the fabric is a fabulous hemp and organic cotton jersey that I purchased from Blackbird in April 2017. It was $10.50 per half meter. I love this fabric so much. It's perfect for a casual tee. Think, beach bonfires. Also, the color is surprisingly flattering to, I think, every skin tone—even mine that tends to go blotchy. 
      • Cut both front and back tee shirt pieces as a straight size 20. This resulted in a neckline that's far too low, which is why I make sure to wear a pretty bra with it. It's too casual (and low cut) for work, but I love to wear it with jeans or sweats. 
      • No cuffs for this one. 
      • Did not cover stitch the neckline. 
    For future "Sabors," I don't think I'll bother going down a size, but I will raise the neckline to 3/4" like I did for the shibori version. It hits at the sweet spot of not too low, not too mumsy.  The arm holes fit well—roomy, but no bra peeking out. 

    So, moral of the story:  if you find yourself messing up the Tabor v-neck, consider turning it into a Sabor.  

    Thanks for reading and have a great week!