Thursday, September 11, 2014

Bzzzzzz

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This is the Clover by Papercut Patterns. I was so charmed by the details, and hopeful because of Papercut's generous amount of ease, that this pattern jumped my sewing queue and got made as soon as I could possibly put it together. Sewing it up was super simple and fun. I definitely learned a bit, which I will outline a little later, but first let's address a few issues here:

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These are bees, not flies swarming around my torso. Even if they were flies they would be cute, though, right? Am I the only person who thinks illustrated flies might be cute? Probably. Okay, moving on.

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I was excited by the opportunity to try switching around the solids and patterned pieces ( I want to say color blocking, but does that term only apply to solid pieces?), but I made a fatal error in planning out the solid black and the bees: In keeping the raglan sleeves, bust insert, and top of shirt black, I made a giant, white, dual-mountain-peak shape that only served to MAXIMIZE the width of the one section of my body that I would like not to maximize - i.e. my sizable bosom.

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As a result, this is really only wearable with a cardigan. So I guess it's a fail, but since I wear cardigans with most of my tops I should still get a lot of wear out of it. And on the bright side, it was very easy to sew and fit, so it'll be easy for me to quickly make another one.

My notes/details:
  • The black fabric was repurposed from a previous sewing attempt (when I tried learning a few years ago). Yay! It's a shirting fabric and has a subtle stripe that looks nice with the directional bust insert pieces. I used some plain white cotton for underlining the bee fabric. I think it was part of a duvet cover. The bees are a cotton voile I purchased at Fabric Outlet in the Mission. They were having a 50% off sale, so I scored a few yards with the intention of using it to line a jacket. That's still the plan. I have lots.
  • No FBA. There are no darts/shaping whatsoever, so I wasn't sure how to go about that. I'm interested in learning more about adding darts and thought about trying that for the underlining. But there's no underarm or neck gaping, so I think it's alright.
  • Next time I will try adding piping. Seems like a perfect detail for this type of look. I've never added piping before, but, you know, there's this magic box filled with tutorials and info. I noticed a nicely piped version the other day by the very talented and prolific Jolies Bobines. (Update - just found this awesome piping tutorial on the BHL Blog.)
  • I used store-bought bias tape for the neck. Black isn't difficult to match, and I wanted to focus my energy on the hem instead.
  • I'm quite proud of the hem. I practiced with the rolled hem foot with the voile. Occasionally the fabric would get sucked under, so I used tissue paper to prevent that. I picked up some new info on rolled hems such as: 
    1. Sew on the WRONG side of the garment.
    2. To prevent the bulk of seams getting stuck in the roll, press side seams and cut in at a 45 degree angle. Or follow this excellent rolled hem tutorial by Lladybird on the Papercut blog. I wish I had read her tutorial first, actually. Her method has you bypass using the foot at the seams.
  • The side and center seams are french for the voile layer. They are serged for the underlining fabric and the sleeves.
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Note to self: Don't ask Beej to take pictures of me in the morning before leaving for work. WTF?
Until next time. Thanks for reading!

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