This is the Clover by Papercut Patterns. I was so charmed by the details, and hopeful because of Papercut's generous amount of ease, that this pattern jumped my sewing queue and got made as soon as I could possibly put it together. Sewing it up was super simple and fun. I definitely learned a bit, which I will outline a little later, but first let's address a few issues here:
These are bees, not flies swarming around my torso. Even if they were flies they would be cute, though, right? Am I the only person who thinks illustrated flies might be cute? Probably. Okay, moving on.
I was excited by the opportunity to try switching around the solids and patterned pieces ( I want to say color blocking, but does that term only apply to solid pieces?), but I made a fatal error in planning out the solid black and the bees: In keeping the raglan sleeves, bust insert, and top of shirt black, I made a giant, white, dual-mountain-peak shape that only served to MAXIMIZE the width of the one section of my body that I would like not to maximize - i.e. my sizable bosom.
As a result, this is really only wearable with a cardigan. So I guess it's a fail, but since I wear cardigans with most of my tops I should still get a lot of wear out of it. And on the bright side, it was very easy to sew and fit, so it'll be easy for me to quickly make another one.
- The black fabric was repurposed from a previous sewing attempt (when I tried learning a few years ago). Yay! It's a shirting fabric and has a subtle stripe that looks nice with the directional bust insert pieces. I used some plain white cotton for underlining the bee fabric. I think it was part of a duvet cover. The bees are a cotton voile I purchased at Fabric Outlet in the Mission. They were having a 50% off sale, so I scored a few yards with the intention of using it to line a jacket. That's still the plan. I have lots.
- No FBA. There are no darts/shaping whatsoever, so I wasn't sure how to go about that. I'm interested in learning more about adding darts and thought about trying that for the underlining. But there's no underarm or neck gaping, so I think it's alright.
- Next time I will try adding piping. Seems like a perfect detail for this type of look. I've never added piping before, but, you know, there's this magic box filled with tutorials and info. I noticed a nicely piped version the other day by the very talented and prolific Jolies Bobines. (Update - just found this awesome piping tutorial on the BHL Blog.)
- I used store-bought bias tape for the neck. Black isn't difficult to match, and I wanted to focus my energy on the hem instead.
- I'm quite proud of the hem. I practiced with the rolled hem foot with the voile. Occasionally the fabric would get sucked under, so I used tissue paper to prevent that. I picked up some new info on rolled hems such as:
- Sew on the WRONG side of the garment.
- To prevent the bulk of seams getting stuck in the roll, press side seams and cut in at a 45 degree angle. Or follow this excellent rolled hem tutorial by Lladybird on the Papercut blog. I wish I had read her tutorial first, actually. Her method has you bypass using the foot at the seams.
- The side and center seams are french for the voile layer. They are serged for the underlining fabric and the sleeves.
Note to self: Don't ask Beej to take pictures of me in the morning before leaving for work. WTF?
Until next time. Thanks for reading!