Sunday, September 28, 2014

V1247 In Apple Green


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Hello! Another week has flown by and while most of it was a bit tedious, I did get to spend some evenings working on my very own Vogue 1247, which was lots of fun. (Being a sewing-blogging newbie, I've only just discovered the famed V1247, so I guess this post is so very 2012.)

So far I haven't really loved any of my woven garments (mostly due to the fact that I don't spend enough time fitting and cutting properly). This, however, I love! There are some issues I will detail for my own learning purposes, but, yes, I really really love how this turned out.

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And this is the part where I get to feel a little virtuous because I made this top from a thrifted maxi dress. Yes!  See below:


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I picked up this sad, little, most-likely-purchased-from-Forever 21 number at my local Goodwill for 6 bucks because I loved the color and it's a garment with so much fabric to practice with. Now that we're heading/or into fall (depending on where you live) this is a good time to pick up second hand maxis (or upcycle your own). The fabric is a thin cotton with a pretty rough texture that I didn't necessarily love sewing, but for me the color makes up for the low-grade fabric. I also didn't have to worry about wasting a more luxurious (and expensive) fabric while trying out a new pattern. So I guess this is a wearable muslin. I ran into some trouble at the shoulder seams, which you can see for yourself here:

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My shoulder pleats don't meet exactly and there is too much fabric at the back. Part of the problem is that, despite numerous bloggers commenting on the hugely oversized aspect of this design, I was still afraid that it would be too small for me at the bust. So when I cut the back piece, I cut it folded rather than two pieces and didn't deduct the seam allowance. I thought it would give me more room...and I guess it did. The problem is that everything else sort of shifted. The neck got wider and the front got lower. So low, in fact, that I ended up adding a little modesty panel at the V neck to avoid exposing way too much. There was a bit of a gauzy underskirt on the dress, so I used that for the panel, which I think adds a nice bit of texture. Cutting on the fold did, however, allow me to take advantage of the slit in original garment. I think this top benefits from having the back slit since it's so oversized and flowy. The CB is the only non-frenched seam since it's part of the original. I wonder how one would attempt a slit in a french seam? Hmmm?

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I wound up guessing on grainline and bias. I figured that since the original dress looked to be pretty cheaply mass-produced, it was a fair assumption that the skirt panels were not cut on the bias to save on fabric.

And here's an undie pic and some notes on my ongoing quest to perfect my underwear making. In keeping with my upcycling theme this week, the fabric is from an old Banana Republic tee that was ready to be retired.
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My notes:
  • I'd like to try another V1247 (and the cute skirt that's included) in a more luxurious fabric next time. I bet double gauze would be lovely. Also, wouldn't this make a fun dyeing project? I could see the segmented panels dyed in different values of the same hue.
  • Next time I would cut AS is except maybe raise the CF about an inch. Also, I would pay more attention to this part of the fit before adding the neck facing. (I'm already pretty lazy about ripping out stitching but even more reluctant to make adjustments with the french seams.) This pattern is really about getting it right in the preliminary stages.
  • I was seriously confused about the shoulder pleats. I was never sure if I was supposed to top stitch them or what. I've seen other versions where sewists have removed them altogether, but I like the extra shaping they add to an otherwise boxy little top. I think they would look better, though, if they were a little closer together.
  • I didn't do the sleeve roll, but I did add the sleeve facing. Found this most excellent sleeve roll tutorial from Salme patterns.
  • Undies - This is a bigger version of what I've been making since this fabric is not a four way stretch. I cut the front and back pieces about 1.5 inches wider. ETA: The extra 1.5 to the width of the front and back pattern pieces made for a perfect fit!
  • I think I'm improving with the elastic sewing part. The trick, I think, is not to pull too much. I can  tell when they look all twisty that I've pulled way too hard on the elastic.
So that's all I can think to note about my most recent make. I may add some notes later when I've worn them a bit. Thanks so much for reading (if you've made it this far), and I hope you have a lovely week.




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