Sunday, November 30, 2014

Polar Opposites

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Hello and a very happy Thanksgiving to those who celebrated on Thursday. It's been such a lovely weekend. I have been feeling so languid - must be a long term turkey coma - and have found myself not wanting to do much this weekend but sleep and stare out the window. I did, however, manage to create an impulse project that I want to share with you. So I actually have two projects I'd like to share. I could save the second for another post, I suppose, but I tend to forget the details.

But first, I finally finished my second Bruyere! And here I am, standing, I think, a bit like Yul Brynner in the The King and I. It's one of my standard, see I really do have a waist, poses.

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I know I look smug. I'm trying not to grimace or look terrified so much in my photos, so you get smug instead. But I am proud as this time I didn't make so many mistakes. Unlike my first bruyere, the pleats were done correctly, so the other pieces matched up. I think the fit is good. Here, check out the back.

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Okay, here are my notes:
  •  I used the same front bodice piece that I adjusted last time (largest size, plus fba and grading out at the waist) since my size falls outside of Deer and Doe's size range. It's a closer fit this time because I sewed the box pleats and button placket correctly this time. I actually think it might be a bit too close fitting. It feels good standing, but I'm not sure about sitting at a desk all day. ETA: Wore it all day at the office and it was completely comfortable.
  • The fabric is Robert Kaufman cotton - a remnant from Britex purchased for 19.99. I've been trying to stay away from cottons since my early endeavors, but after reading so many sewing blogs and hearing "Robert Kaufman this"and "Robert Kaufman that" I thought I'd give it a try. Plus, the price was right. Verdict: It was easy to sew and doesn't feel quite as heavy as a lot of novelty cottons. I do see a lot of ironing in my future, though. I'm definitely gonna have to pull this one out of the dryer immediately! :) Also, there is no stretch, which might not be best for a fitted button-up on a large busted lady. ETA: The fabric kept its shape all day. No straining, no stretching out the way linen does.
  • I'm proud of my cuffs this time. Must remember: It's a lot easier to sew the sleeve plackets on before I sew the sleeve seams together. 
  • Being a shorty, I almost never have sleeves that aren't too long. This is awesome!
Okay, on to project number 2, which couldn't be more different in terms of personal style:

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This is the Papercut Saiph sewn up in a knit fabric. I made this before. And while I loved wearing my birthday blouse while I was on vacation, it hasn't gotten a lot of wear since.  Partly because of the Hawaiian print and partly because it's way too large and the style is too boxy for my frame. So why spend my precious free time sewing a top that doesn't suit me?  Basically,  I saw this gorgeous sweater dress on Sallioh and fell in love. Now Sallie looks to me like she could wear anything and look great, and I certainly didn't expect to look as fab as her. I just really love a cuddly sweater mini in an unusual pattern. Also, I was intrigued with the idea of sewing the saiph up in a knit.

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Unfortunately, I don't have photos of me wearing it. Sorry, I know that's lame.
Here are my notes:
  • Since it's a knit, I went for a smaller size than usual (medium). I didn't make any pattern adjustments like an FBA because the finished garment size indicated that there would be plenty of room and I remembered how there was a lot of ease in my first version. I wanted it to be loose-fitting. I did shorten it, which is where I think I ran into trouble.
  • I must have neglected to shorten the front bodice because there was a three inch length difference. I wound up having to hack off the other side to make it match up. 
  • I trimmed 1/4 inch off the sleeve cap, per SallieOh's instructions, and it worked out well.
  • I shortened all the pieces too much. This is not a dress, or even a tunic. It falls just below my crotch, and is only wearable with leggings or jeans.  Basically, it's a boxy sweater.
  • I followed Sallie's advice and skipped the collar facing and just turned under collar, cuffs, and hem. Finished with a double needle. I also skipped the french darts since it's a knit.
  • Fabric is a very light sweater knit from Wanderlust at $7.50 per yard. It's a cotton/poly blend with 40%stretch.  The  printed design is only on one side.
  • Are you ever attracted to colors that don't suit you? These colors bring out the ruddiness in my skin. I need to resign myself to only choosing this palette for interiors. It's the same with buff, oatmeal, beige. I love soft neutrals but they don't love me.
  • The pockets are droopy, I know, but I like the design feature and was unsure about interfacing a knit.
  • Overall, It really doesn't suit me, but man is it comfortable!
Well, my long holiday weekend is over and it's back to the grind tomorrow, but I'm very grateful to have enjoyed some time off. I feel a bit overfed and sleepy, but most of all I feel very thankful for having a fun new hobby to pursue and share. Thank you very much for reading and allowing me to share my project thoughts and progress with you. Cheers!



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