Tuesday, October 8, 2019

Papercut Patterns: Stacker Jacket



Well, hello! It's been a while, hasn't it? So long, in fact, that I'm bypassing my summer sewing projects in favor of this fall jacket I just made. I plan to catch up this month, though, and need to record my mods for the CCP Rome collection and talk about my summer travels. So hope to be back with more posts soon. 

I made the Papercut Patterns Stacker Jacket from their recent Rubix collection. I've had mixed results with Papercut Patterns in the past, but I do love their pretty patterns/packaging/styling and could not resist the pull of a cropped corduroy jacket for fall. I mean, corduroy just screams autumn to me—totally reminds me of back-to-school clothes that were always a little too heavy to wear in Southern California September and October but I just couldn't wait to wear my new clothes. I also really needed an in-between jacket. I have my DnD Opium coat for cold weather and my CCP anorak for rainy/windy days, but I didn't have a light layer to wear over a light blouse or sweater on crisp fall days.



And I sewed this up on my new/used Pfaff sewing machine! I'd been thinking about getting a Pfaff for quite a while and finally bit the bullet when I recently found one on Craigslist. My Singer sews a pretty nice-looking seam, but it doesn't handle thick layers very well. I've already christened my Pfaff "Hans the Mountain Climber" because it effortlessly climbs over anything. I plan to write an extended review on my new Pfaff and how it compares with my Singer once I have a few more projects under my belt.


The fabric is a lovely soft black corduroy from Blackbird fabrics with a bit of stretch. I shopped my stash for the entire project, using wooden buttons and blue voile (for the lining) from my stash. As the project started coming together and I realized how cute it was going to be, I started thinking about custom details to make it a bit more special. My major change was to redraft the pockets because as soon as I put on a jacket, the first thing I want to do is thrust my hands in the pockets, and as-drafted the pockets don't allow for that. I also made a custom pocket for my phone, which I LOVE!



So, without further ado, here's a full-length toilet selfie followed by the deets/mods. 


The deets:
  • Size 7 (second to largest). There is quite a bit of ease in the jacket and, I find, in Papercut patterns in general. So I made a quickie muslin of the bodice and found that the 7 worked well. 
  • Shortened the sleeves by 3/4", which is a standard mod for me. This is a really cropped jacket, even for my 5'2" frame. If you're tall, I would recommend lengthening the torso and sleeves.
  • Changed buttons from 4 to 5. (I tend to like the way odd numbers look better.) The wooden buttons were a compromise based on what I had in my stash, but now I really like them. I like the definition they give to the jacket. 
  • As mentioned, I changed the pockets so that I could put my hands in the pockets. I went through a couple of different versions before finally just tracing a rough outline over my anorak pockets and adding seam allowances. I ended up making them a bit smaller to fit onto the jacket and placed them far forward for easy access. 
  • This comes together very quickly. There's no collar stand or separate placket piece. Just a fun, simple little jacket. 
  • Sleeves are slightly dropped and very easy to insert. I didn't need to baste and gather the sleeve head or anything, but maybe that's because my fabric has a bit of stretch. 
So that's the story on my new fall jacket. Hope you have a fabulous week and hope to be blogging again very soon. Cheers!

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