Saturday, February 21, 2015

Pavot Progress


Hello Hello! Hope you're having a fantastic weekend. It's been a busy week for me with a number of different chores and projects, plus the whole earning-a-living thing. But I still feel like blogging, so since I don't have a finished project to share here's the process on something I've been working on for a while now.

Despite my two unfinished Colette Anise jackets (Oh the shame!) I still went ahead and purchased the Deer and Doe Pavot pattern back in November. I totally ignored the fact that I'm just not that big of a fan of peter pan collars and bought it anyway cuz I'm a middle-aged Deer and Doe fangirl. I kept envisioning a cool little trench - olive green with a leather collar. Sometimes when I get an idea in my head I'm like a dog with a bone. I just had to see it through

Pavot Progress

I redid the collar and like it much better now. I didn't like the rounded peter pan shape, plus it made the leather pucker in a way that made it look ill-fitting and cheap.  You can compare the two side by side. Although there are still other fitting issues to tweak (and, of course,  finishing, hemming, buttons, etc.) I think I'm almost there. 

Here are some more details:

  • To avoid the leather puckering and a too-thick seam, I cut the leather just short of the seam allowance (on the inside) and just stitched the leather on top of the cloth collar.
  • I just traced over the regular collar and drew a more angular shape. See below for a picture of the pattern piece. 
  • The leather was a scrap from an old skirt that I had already cut up to make an ipad case.
  • The fabric: Organic Cotton Twill from Discount Fabrics at 10.99 per yard. It's a really good weight for this type of coat. 
  • I'll have to take some pictures wearing it once finished as it doesn't look quite so frumpy on.
  • Fitting adjustments include an FBA on the princess bodice and grading out for the waist and bottom skirt. It's actually too big right now, even for outerwear, because the placket added more inches than I expected. I'm not sure how to fix that, though, because of the side seam pockets. 
  • The next time I grade out the waist, I'm using this awesome tutorial on the Curvy Sewing Collective.

Overall, I think it will be cute and, hopefully, wearable, but I think I should keep an eye out for an actual trench coat pattern for next time. Any suggestions?

Have a great week. Stay warm and safe and do something nice for yourself. Cheers, Donna


  1. This is shaping up to be a fantastic make! I really love the leather collar. I haven't made this pattern -- I am wanting to make the Robson trench.

  2. Thanks! I wish I had chosen a classic trench with a larger, more open collar instead of trying to make this pattern into something it's not, but too late now. I need a few different jackets anyway. Let me know how your Robson turns out.

  3. Very cool collar. That shape seems like a great match to the leather. And a nice combo with the olive green. Can't wait to see the finished jacket!