Monday, November 2, 2015

Waver Jacket Takes Me Back


Hello There! Way back in the nineties I had a slouchy hooded jacket that I loved. It was lined, had snaps and a drawstring, and was made out of a super soft knit (probably something like a ponte). With the exception of using knit fabric, I pretty much recreated my old jacket with the Papercut Waver Jacket. Yay!


Last year, I attempted to make not one, not two, but three pieces of outerwear. All remain unfinished. Sigh. I think where I ran into trouble was straying too far away from the original patterns. But, hey, I learned from the experience. I learned that I really don't like peter pan collars. :) I may actually go back and work on that trench some more since it would be nice over work clothes. With the Waver jacket, I didn't make any changes. It went together very quickly, without the slightest bit of drama. The pattern pieces fit perfectly together, which I think is what people mean when they say that a pattern is well drafted.


Yesterday was the first day it was cool enough to wear a light jacket, so Beej and I went for a walk in the beautiful San Francisco Arboretum and had a little photo session, which consisted mainly of me hissing at him, "here, take a picture of me! hurry, someone's coming!" We love going to the arboretum and try to take a different path each time. Yesterday, we checked out the prehistoric plants.


Here's the back. I don't have any hood pics, but it works the way a hood is supposed to - i.e. it stays on - maybe because it's made from three pieces so it conforms to the shape of a head.


I made this a couple of months ago, during a heatwave, actually, so I'm just now looking back at the pattern pieces to remember what I did. Here are the details:
  •  Papercut patterns run large, and a jacket, of course, has even more ease. This actually worked in my favor since I'm just outside of their size range. Also, with a drawstring waist there's definitely some wiggle room. I cut extra large on the sides of the bodice and back and large at the arms and shoulders and large for the sleeves.  Amazingly, I did not have to shorten the length of the jacket.
  • I don't know very much about the outer fabric since Fabric Outlet doesn't offer a lot of textile info. It has a very subtle herringbone weave of black and blue cotton thread and frayed like the dickens - almost before my eyes. It's also quite lightweight.
  • The lining makes me very happy. It's beige and white polka dot from Japan, also purchased at Fabric Outlet. 
  • My one regret with this jacket is that I didn't interface the hem. The instructions tell you to, but I skipped the step because I was going for a slouchy look. I think it would have still looked casual but more polished and professionally made if I had interfaced the bottom. 
  • Snaps! I was both thrilled and terrified when it came time to set the snaps.  Here is some info and tips that helped me:
    • I used the Dritz heavy duty snaps and the Dritz heavy duty plier kit. I've had inconsistent results with other Dritz products, which made me nervous that I was going to mess up my nearly completed project.
    • Obviously, I bought extra snaps and practiced a bit on some interfaced scraps. 
    • When it was finally go-time for the actual garment, I found that it helped me to separate my top snaps (sockets and caps) from my bottom snaps (studs and posts) into two different piles so that I didn't inadvertently grab the wrong thing. 
    • For the bottom snaps, I pinned the lapel back to help me line things up and to ensure that I didn't apply the bottom snap to the front. You apply the top snap to the right side of the garment and the bottom snap to the wrong side.
Snaps! #waver jacket #sewingblog #papercutpatterns #newclosures

So I think I've said everything I wanted to say about this make. It really was fun, and I'm delighted to have made a jacket that I'm not embarrassed to wear in public. If I find some nice weather-resistant fabric, I would definitely make another one since this one won't help me much if I get caught in a downpour. I also think it would look nice in a stiffer fabric - like a waxed denim or cotton twill.

Thanks so much for reading and have a fantastic week!


  1. Heather from Heather Grows (Or the Pug and the Needle) made a great version of this jacket last year that made me curious to try it... now you are making me curious again! It looks great - and I love your pics in the park! :)

  2. Thanks, Gillian! Your Better Pictures Project is helping. I even took a few sitting pics and thought of you. :)