Saturday, August 19, 2017

Kalle Love

Hello there! Hope you're having a good weekend so far. Beej and I went out after work last night--a rare occasion for us--and feasted on Chinese food (at Fang) and improv (Binge Watch and Pockets at Piano Fight). Now I'm just kicking it and drinking my third cup of tea as I ease myself into the weekend. 

So, obviously, I'm here today to share my notes about (and enthusiasm for) the Closet Case Patterns Kalle Shirt/dress. What a popular pattern--and with good reason! It's so versatile with three lengths (cropped, tunic, dress), band or full collar, popover placket, full, and hidden. Everything is interchangeable, so you can choose your own adventure. I went, of course, for the tunic length, in dark blue, naturally. Hey, my choices may not be exciting but at least I know what I like. 

I began this project feeling slightly overwhelmed and reluctant to spend a lot of time on the first go, so I chose the band collar and popover placket because it was less work. However, due to the kimono style sleeve and generous amount of ease it comes together pretty quickly, so next time I would like to try the full collar and placket. I find shirtmaking a little scary but ultimately very satisfying. I tried to push away the paralyzing notion of perfection and just kept moving forward. My final version is definitely not without flaws, but I still feel proud, and rather stylish, wearing it. I love, love, love the curved hem. It really helps to balance the length/oversized design and keeps it from looking tent-like. I used a fabulous tencil twill from Blackbird fabrics. It's a little heavy for a blouse, but the weight makes it drape so nicely. 

Here's a classy bathroom pic for you. 

Here are the deets:
  • Size 20, no FBA. This is an easy, oversized fit, so I would probably be wise to cut a size 18 with an FBA next time. In fact, I was surprised at how high/low my high/low was (although I didn't mind); however, I'm sure it wouldn't be quite so pronounced if I had done an FBA.
  • I shortened at the "shorten here" line by 2 inches. I think I'll shorten another 1.5 next time.
  • Used self fabric (bias strip pattern piece included), which helps to make a nice smooth curve. It was still really hard to fold the fast fraying twill under by 1/4 inch. I suppose a lighter weight fabric would be easier. I also may just use store-bought bias tape next time. The packaged stuff is pretty stiff, but I've noticed some handmade tape on Etsy that might be softer. Or, of course, I could make some.
  • Slowing down on curves: I don't know why, but I have this habit of speeding up when sewing curves, like I just want to get it over with or I think it's going to go smoother if I do it faster. I used to drive this way, too, until my dad--naturally a concerned passenger--brought it to my attention.
  • I had some trouble getting the sleeve cuffs to fit. It might have been a cutting error because I sewed them together pretty carefully. Also, catching the inside fold while topstitching the outside cuff didn't work out so well. I will probably just hand stitch a few missed spots.
  •  I went for the inverted pleat in back--my favorite. 
So that's it. For my next version, I'd like to make one in white. I would shorten the back because even though I like the high/low, I think it would be a bit odd to have another shirt in exactly the same style. I'd also like to take a crack at the hidden button placket. But right now I've got day dresses and vacation sewing on the brain. Another Kalle will have to wait.

Have a fabulous weekend and thanks so much for checking out my project.