Monday, September 27, 2021

Papercut Pinnacle Sweatshirt: Curve Edition


Hello, Lovely People! For many of us, it's sweatshirt season. Woohoo! Actually, it was the foggiest of foggy summers for me, so really it's always been sweatshirt weather, but now we're venturing into pumpkin spice season and cozy days ahead. In case I haven't made it obvious, I absolutely love this time of year. The light is beautiful; the days become breezy and a little crisp. I always try to savor this time before the holiday craziness begins. 

Okay,  back to it. I'm here to post about the Papercut Pinnacle Top. They've recently released a separate Curve size range (Yay!) and it's available in PAPER, not just PDF.  Papercut Patterns remind me a bit of luxury makeup or perfume. Like, I feel like I sort of get taken in by the pretty packaging, but many of the patterns are pretty basic and the instructions are kind of sparse.  

Overall, though, I really like my sweatshirt but it's VERY oversized and the sleeve cuffs are weirdly wide. More on that in a bit. 

So let's start with the elephant in the room: that meeting point for the upper and lower triangles is difficult and I didn't execute it perfectly. I really tried--even used fusible bias on the edges so it didn't stretch out--but it still ended up puckering a bit. I kept picking and clipping and resewing but I finally had to leave it alone before I ended up making it worse. This is thick French terry, like a towel, so I readjusted my expectations. C'est la vie.

I actually don't mind how much it's oversized, but if you like your garments to be fit more closely, I would recommend sizing down. There are about 12 inches of ease here, which is a lot. Papercut patterns always seem to run big, IMO.  

The bigger problem is those crazy cuffs, (see below) and I have no idea what happened because I don't have inordinately small wrists. I think I could easily fix it by tapering in the underside/batwing a bit, followed by an additional adjustment to the cuff. 

Here are my adjustments and additional notes:
  • Size 9 from the Curve range, which is based on a D cup (sewing cup, not bra size). 
  • I am in LOVE with this fabric from Stonemountain in Berkeley: Organic Tencel Terry. Would love to buy some more either in black or again in olive for a pair of wide-legged cropped sweat pants. It has great drape but still has that wonderfully spongey sweatshirt feel with just the right amount of stretch--20% on the grain. 
  • I shortened the sleeves by 1.25", which is standard for me, but made sure to shorten it in the middle so it wouldn't affect the width of the sleeve hem. 
  • I shortened the width of the cuff by 1" b/c it seemed a little too long in the PPC model photos. 
  • The pattern is designed for both knits and wovens but I don't recall being instructed to size down for knits. Maybe that's the issue. ETA: I've had some time to think and to wear and wash my sweatshirt, and I think I know the issue. I think I steamed it too much during assembly. I just love my steam. That's why I love sewing with linen so much. :)  The good news is that it snapped back after a wash/dry and now it's the right amount of ease for me. I love wearing it so much. It's cozy to put on at the end of the day or after a bath.  And, yes, I've already spilled food on it.  :))
The more I look at these pics, the more I think I'll bring the sides in a little. The pattern doesn't have shoulder seams, so it's really just one seam on either side which hopefully makes a difference. Either way, it's super cozy and I'll wear it a lot--particularly since I'm still working from home. 

So that's all for me. I'm currently working on a quilt right now AND I've just joined a pottery studio. Lots of exciting making ahead. :) Thanks for reading!

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